What we remember on the island of Thassos: review
Our family is very fond of holidays in Greece. Were on Rhodes, Crete, Kos. We heard a lot about the green island of Thassos and dreamed of going there.
Thassos - the northernmost island of Greece. It is separated from the mainland by the strait, which in the narrowest place is only 7 kilometers. The airport is located on the mainland, and to the hotels guests are transported by buses, which call on the ferry, so no transfer is necessary. From the port of Keramoti ferries depart for the capital of Thassos - Limenas. Also from Kavala ferries follow to the port of Scala Prince. On the ferry, the favorite entertainment of tourists is feeding the seagulls, which are circling above the deck and snatching pieces of bread from their hands, always flying up from behind their backs.
Thassos Island, Hotel Filippos
We went to Thassos in July, having bought a tour for 14 nights. Lived in the hotel Filippos on the outskirts of the village of Skala Rahoni.
Filippos is a small family hotel. He is led by his grandfather and his two grandsons. Very polite and always ready to help. The bus can not drive up to the hotel, and the brothers were greeted the guests on the main road, then to take them to the hotel. Filippos works on the system "breakfast-dinner" (lunch is not provided). Breakfast is a buffet, and dinner is a la carte. Drinks for dinner are paid, but water is served free of charge and without restrictions.
On the first day, we sat on an open veranda, but the wasps immediately flew to the food, of which there are a lot of Thassos. It is good that the guide Georgius asked the staff to light ground coffee in a saucer - a natural and harmless repellent, which the locals are saving themselves from pesky insects. Confirm: the method works fine. But, nevertheless, we did not sit on the veranda anymore.
The room has a fridge, air conditioning and TV. There is free, but not too fast wi-fi. But most of all we were struck by the entrance door - a powerful steel structure with an eye, an opening stopper and a safe lock! By the way, there is no safe in the room, but I do not think that with such a door it is even needed.
The room has a balcony, also with a good plastic door and sliding nets. On the balcony stretched rope to dry clothes. Unfortunately, there were no glasses in the room.
The village of Skala Rahoni is located in the north-west of the island, 12 km from the capital, the city of Limenas. In the city we went by bus. The stop is on the main road. Buses run infrequently, according to the schedule - only eight times a day and not too punctually. The fare to Limenas is 1.8 euros. From Skala Rahoni, you can reach Limenaria and Potos (without stopping in Limenas).
Not far from the hotel is a large supermarket Latsuris.
Thassos beaches and walks
The nearest beach is sandy and the sea is shallow. The sand is unusual, brilliant, probably because of mica interspersing. Sunset is different everywhere: somewhere there are stones at the entrance, somewhere there is more algae. From the hotel we walked to the right, the second turn to the sea, located near the Kostas tavern. There we found the most convenient entry into the sea. We took a beach umbrella with us, but it was never useful. On the beach there are trees that give a thick shadow. It is especially pleasant to lie under the pines, inhaling their spicy scent.
In a small hotel animation, of course, is not provided. Guests entertain themselves. It is a pity that in the village there is no embankment. We usually walked along a minor road that led to the Rahoni rock, or along the seashore (sometimes we sat on sun loungers and admired bright stars). It is not very convenient to walk along the road: there are no sidewalks and constantly have to let cars through.
If you leave the hotel and go to the right, then after about three hundred meters you will find yourself on a small bridge over a small river, which dries up in summer. Along it, in the high grass, lives of many fireflies! Every evening we went to admire these sparkling lights, however, it is not always possible to see them. On another evening, the thickets literally poured dozens of tiny, but bright flashes, and on another occasion the fireflies did not turn out at all. We did not understand the patterns of their appearance, but noticed that it is best to come to the bridge not in complete darkness, but at dusk.
Several times we walked along the sea to the neighboring village - Skala Prin. If someone decides to go there in the afternoon, then grab a treat for the many turtles that live in the local river. There is a bridge across the river, and under it a multitude of turtles gather and look at passers-by with expectation.
The Rock Prince is a local travel agency. We decided to find out how much the transfer to Marble Beach costs. It turned out to be very expensive: 79 euros for 5 people. We decided that we would get to Marmara Beach on foot from Limenas, since the experience of hiking is considerable.
In the capital of the island of Limenas, we went by bus. Left at the stop "Center". They inspected the old port, went up to the amphitheater, walked among the ruins of the ancient agora, examined the most interesting exposition of the Archaeological Museum. Back left the bus station, it is located opposite the new port, where ferries arrive.
Marble Beach on Thassos
As planned, we went to Marmara Beach on foot from Limenas. We arrived in the city by bus at 9.20. They went out in the center and, armed with a navigator, went towards the beach, past the Selena Gate and some other "antiquities" that were located right in the town among the houses.
We climbed the asphalt road to the hotel Makriammos. Then we walked along a dusty dirt road to Marmara Beach (about 5 km). At the Salyar beach, it seemed too crowded to us, we walked a little further to Vati Beach and bathed there. Marble beach is, of course, a beautiful place, but it is better to be there in the early morning or vice versa, closer to evening. During the day there are too many people. In Limenas, we managed to take the bus at 14.50 (and the next only at 17).
Village Rahoni, walks in the mountains
One day after lunch, we decided to go to the village of Rakhoni, which is 4 km inland from the main road. First passed the village of Agios Georgius. We reached the stop near the entrance to the village of Rakhoni and turned onto a side dirt road that went into the mountains. We walked past a marble processing plant (there was a table and benches made of whole pieces of marble next to it), then a marble quarry and apiaries. On the road, there were numerous signs to the church of Agios Georgius, but for the first time we did not reach it. Seen a pointer to the old road to Limenas. But it was too late to walk on it.
When planning a trip to Thassos, I read a lot of reviews, and I included the highest point of the island, Mount Ipsario (altitude 1206 m), among the required places to visit. We were going to go up there with my husband along the "main" tourist trail, which begins in Potamia. The weather forecast for July 25 promised a hot and sunny day (the probability of rain is 0% according to the forecast).
From Skala Rakhoni left by bus at 9.20. In Limenas, they took a bus to Potamia (departure at 10.30). We were still on the road, when the bus was suddenly dark outside, the mountains were clouded with clouds, and a strong thunderstorm began. Naturally, the campaign had to be postponed. We drove to Golden Beach, waited for the bus to Limenas and returned. The storm, by the way, passed just as suddenly as it started and the sun was already hot. That was so unlucky our first attempt to conquer Ipsario.
One day, we decided to try our luck again and climb Ypsario. But now they came to the "ascent" on the other hand, moreover, literally, going straight to the Potamia side, along the mountain paths, bending around Ipsario on the left.
If you believe the navigator, we had to go immediately to the middle of the "main" path that goes from the village to the top. We left the hotel at 6 am and set off along the already explored route to the village of Rahoni and on to the church of Agios Georgios. We saw the rising sun illuminated the top of Ipsario.
We got to the church easily, but then we lost the path. The navigator stubbornly showed that she was somewhere nearby, but we did not see her. Only after half an hour of wandering, we finally found a barely perceptible path behind the church. At first it is really barely visible, and then it turns into a fairly wide road along which (judging by the tire tracks) cars pass.
For more than 20 kilometers along this mountain path, we met only one car (in the back were bundles of mountain tea) and one cyclist. And we hardly saw footprints, tires of cars, bicycles, hoof marks ...
First, in the palm of your hand, the coast of Scala Rahoni stretched before us, then we turned, and the city of Thassos and marble quarries became visible. When they crossed to the other side of the mountain, a beautiful view of Golden Beach opened up.
The road was winding: it went up and down, but remained wide. True, at intersections had to check with the navigator. On the way, we saw wild goats, lizards, and also passed apiaries with buzzing beehives. Walking along a row of such houses was a little uneasy.
To the trail to the top we went out at 12 o'clock. Then the ascent began at once very steeply, we went up a bit and realized that after thirty kilometers of the road, in the heat itself and with thoughts of being late for the last bus at 5.10 pm, we could not manage the rest of the route. I had to turn back, leaving Ipsario unconquered.
Before Potamia we walked about three kilometers further down, and even on this descent my knees were already trembling due to the tension - the slope was very sharp. Saw a tree with a spring following from it, but could not get drunk. Nearby is another apiary, so many bees flew near the water. In Potamiy, the bus was scheduled to be at 1:15 pm, but it was late - it arrived at 2 pm We arrived at Thassos, waited at the bus station and left for Rakhoni Rock at 14.50.
As a result, we climbed to a height of about 600 meters, having covered on foot about 35 kilometers, considering the descent to the village. Still, this walk in the mountains left the most pleasant memories: the mountain air, the desolation, beautiful views ... For the sake of this alone it was worth going to the mountains.
From Skala Rahoni, you can reach Limenaria without stopping in Limenas. The ticket costs 3.50. Bus at 10.15. Before Limenaria, the bus rode for 40 minutes - drove into the Rock of Prince, Prinos, the Rock of Sotiras, the Rock of Kalirahi, the Rock of Maries. In Limenaria, we descended from the stop to the embankment, reached the park and went up to the abandoned office building of the metallurgical plant - Palataki (Little Palace). The building is fenced, but the grid is torn in places and you can go inside without difficulty. We wandered around the rooms, imagining that once there were tables here and people worked. Then they went further towards the beach of Metallia, at the same time inspecting the remains of the structures of the former metallurgical plant that were incomprehensible to the uninitiated.
In this part of Thassos, there is a completely different coastal line: the steep coast reminded the Costa Brava in Spain. They didn’t swim in Metals: I didn’t like to enter the sea (in sandbags), besides it was stormy. We wandered through the park, climbed a hill at the port, tried to explore Limenaria, but ... Walking through the streets of Thassos is more of a test than a pleasure. The pavement is very narrow, it usually has either a car, a scooter or a trash can. We have to go out on the roadway, on which cars rush. In general, we looked a bit: we returned to the bus stop and waited for the bus. According to the schedule it should be at 14.40. We sat in the shade on a side street. For 10 minutes I decided to go out - see if someone else was waiting for the bus. And she saw that he was already standing - another feature of buses on Thassos became clear: they can either be late or come earlier.
Pachis and Glifoneri beaches
One day they decided to walk to the famous beaches of Pachis and Glifoneri, which are located not far from Skala Rahoni. First we walked along the seashore, then we had to walk a little along the side of the road. I didn’t like Pahis: he is covered with sunbeds to the very edge of the water. To Glifoneri, which is located behind the cape, walked along the coast, jumping over stones. Glifoneri is a cozy bay, all in the shade of pines, with fine, white, dense sand. The water in the bay was calm, although the sea was worried. I liked this beach very much, but it is small, crowded and, besides, it was too far from our hotel to go there daily.
In our collection of the Greek islands, Thassos has taken a special place. But I do not think that we want to come back here. It turned out to be not too adapted for our usual travels on foot and by bus, and we never rent a car. And yet Thassos will remain in memory as a sparkling island: brilliant sand in the sea, iridescent marble and bright fireflies.