Matvey Ganapolsky: "Pizza like madness"
If you take the children to Italy, then on the second day they will forget everything they were fed. The most favorite dishes disappear from their lives. Only one thing remains - pizza.
In the morning, afternoon and evening.
It is possible pizza ready, it is possible frozen, it is possible with ketchup, and it is possible and with milk.
If a slice of pizza is left, it is placed under the pillow.
That is, when children touch pizza, all the layers of past home culinary culture and grandmother's traditions immediately slip away from them.
“That's right,” Alexey exclaimed happily. - When traditions move a little to one side, it gives an opportunity to look at some phenomenon with a fresh look.
So, let's take a fresh look at pizza, especially since this dish is definitely a glorious culinary phenomenon.
Many believe that, just like other Italian dishes, pizza began its triumphant march around the world from here, from Italy.
Yes, she was born in Italy, then traveled the world for a long time and only then triumphantly returned to Europe from America. It was right after the Second World War, when the American army marched across Europe. There were thousands of Italians in the army, many of whom were no longer in the first generation lived in America and quickly organized its production there. And from there they smashed the world.
But, of course, it was here, in Italy, that pizza acquired its ancient roots. It is believed that the cuisines of ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and ancient Rome already had similar dishes.
But the word pizza itself can be traced only at the end of the tenth century, and this name also absorbed in a strange way similar, similar names from very different close languages.
Neapolitans use the word piza, the designation of "pulling out of the oven."
The ancient Romans used the word picea, so called the blackened from the heat bottom of the bread.
In the current Italian language there is the word pizzi-sare - a synonym for the word "pinch".
But let's not forget the Middle Eastern "pita" - isn’t it, it seems - it’s also flat, though thicker.
- I know that several small restaurants in the States are fighting for the title "It was here that pizza was born." There is no winner yet, I said.
- Yes, although it is believed that American pizza was born in Chicago. But it is known for sure that in 1957 the first semi-finished pizza appeared. But, of course, we will not insult the pizza by talking about its American copy with a thick dough, but let's talk about the original, which appeared in the 16th century, right after tomatoes appeared in Italy. Because only Italian pizza could give birth to such a thing as pizzaiolo - pizza maker, that is, the person who stands at the oven and bakes pizza. This is an honorary chef title, it is very often inherited, and good pizza maker is worth its weight in gold.
If you remember, I told you that my first acquaintance with Italian cuisine happened in Somalia ...
“An interesting place to explore Italian cuisine ...” I grunted.
- It was in the early 60s, and then it was a completely different country, - said Alexey. - She was just freed, the smell of the Italian protectorate was still felt, there were many Italians there, and in the center of the city there was a pizzeria. The restaurant, which was called Capucetto nero - "Black Cap". For originality.
And here in this "Black Hat" hung the announcement: "Pizza on Thursdays."
I was very interested in why on Thursdays, and not every day. And the owner told me: "You understand, we have a pizza maker very old man and can not stand at the stove every day, he gets tired."
And, indeed, I noticed that on Thursday came such a wonderful gray-haired man. The restaurant opened at one o'clock, he came to twelve, kindled the stove and stood beside it until the evening.
- What is the responsible attitude to pizza. No, to skalturit ...
- Can not.
We go further. I want to remind you that all pizzerias are divided into two categories: those who have an electric oven, and those who have a wood oven, ”continued Bukalov. - And I assure you that in every pizzeria where there is a wood-burning oven, this is written somewhere: on an advertisement, on a poster, on the door of a restaurant.
Precisely because in the wood oven the real pizza turns out. Of course, the electric oven is coming, the quality of the pizza is excellent, but ... something is missing. The uninitiated will not notice, and tourists are usually fed pizza from an electric oven.
We have already spoken with you that pizza has lived several births and several lives. And even the name of some of its species is not accidental.
For example, the famous pizza "Margarita" - this is not in honor of the flowers of daisies, but in honor of Kargareta, the Queen of Italy. She tried a pizza 120 years ago in one of the restaurants in Naples, which was made in her honor, and in this pizza were the colors of the Italian "tricolor": there were pieces of greenery, there was mozzarella, there were tomatoes. And this white-red-green flag, which at first was the flag of the Savoy dynasty, the flag of the Italian kingdom, and now the flag of the Italian Republic, was embodied in pizza.
This fact your children do not know, they know only the beautiful name "Pizza Margherita".
We have already spoken about the etymology of the word "pizza". I remembered one more word - pizzo, which means "lace".
- To the great phenomena we can only pick up the name - I said.
“Precisely,” confirmed Bukalov. - And now I think how many generations and nations should have worked on this "simple test circle."
Worked several civilizations.
Germanic tribes were to destroy Rome.
The Lombards had to come - these are other Germans, they came with their buffaloes and buffaloes. And buffaloes gave milk, from which they learned how to make mozzarella.
And now there is a Jewish cake and German mozzarella.
But another thousand years pass and tomatoes from the New World are added to them - you can clearly see how the pattern of this lace is gradually becoming more complex. Capers, salami and other decorations appeared later.
But that's not all!
A pizza maker makes two kinds of pizza and a closed one.
Closed looks more like a Georgian khachapuri and is called calzone - literally, this is a “belly”.
So, when a waiter comes to you and is interested in your mood, you can say aperta or calzone. And you will immediately make it in the oven. I say this to the fact that in addition to these seventy titles that you have already read about in the menu, you can also choose how it will be done.
From the book "Chao, Italy!"